High-Performance HeatGreen Home Heating System Version 3a

The relatively small device described here (roughly the size of an upright piano and weighing empty around 140 pounds) (and with all construction instructions included below) is around 5 feet in diameter and 2 feet thick. It can easily create the continuous 45,000 Btus per hour of constant heating that a medium-sized home in a cold climate like Chicago needs in January or February, and has shown that it can easily produce twice that amount of heat, or over 90,000 Btus of hour.

This presentation is primarily centered on describing how to build this HG 3a unit with around $200 of locally available materials. Since there are a wide range of climates in the world, and sizes and types of homes, and an immense number of different ways this device can be used, we will include an assortment of simple calculations and explanations, such that each locality or each person could modify the standard HG 3a unit for specific needs. If you want to learn more about how and why the HG heating systems work so well, the presentation at General Description may be useful. That presentation also has a link to a more comprehensive presentation which includes the Biochemistry and Thermodynamics aspects, which we think most people do not want to have to confront!

As noted above, the standard HG 3a unit is relatively modest in size, for several reasons. It is designed to be light enough when empty (140 pounds or so) to easily be carried (or rolled!). It is designed to be of dimensions where standard-sized pieces of plywood are very efficiently used with very little waste, and also so that it can fit through standard doorways. It also is designed so that when completely filled, it does not weigh much more than a filled food freezer, and therefore will not stress building floor structures. The dimensions provide an inside capacity of around 40 cubic feet, so depending on the density of the organic material used, around 400 pounds (at 10 pounds per cubic foot dry density) to 800 pounds (at 20 lb/cu ft) of material usually can be put into it at a time. (Certain materials like sawdust or feed corn are of higher density and greater amounts can be loaded at a time.)

If we consider the most conservative value of 400 pounds of material being placed in it, here are two common possibilities that can happen.

• (1) Around 400 pounds of organic material is dumped into it. At least one handful of black dirt should be also tossed in, as a source for the needed common bacteria, which therefore starts the decomposition of the material. Depending on what kind of material is tossed in, the decomposition can start fairly promptly. If at least some cut lawn grass or hay is included, within twelve hours, the mesophilic bacteria will be in full activity, and within another day, the far more efficient thermophilic bacterial activity will be nearing maximum activity, where it gets the entire contents up to the design temperature range of 130ºF to 150ºF.

  Here again is an early experiment's temperature graph, where the rapid startup of activity develops in a matter of hours.

  From that point onward, decomposition of around 5 pounds of the organic material per hour can be arranged to occur (generating around 45,000 Btus/hr of resulting heat, sufficient to completely heat most entire homes on a cold winter night); after several days, as the available supply of organic material disappears the temperature gradually drops due to lack of material to decompose. At 5 pounds per hour, all 400 pounds will decompose in around 80 hours, or three and a half days. (This process can be amazingly efficient, resulting in virtually NOTHING being left except for water and carbon dioxide and a few ounces of assorted materials).

  If the selected material is straw instead of hay or grass, the process occurs much more slowly. This might be desirable on milder days when less heat is needed, and to make the organic material last many days longer. Many types of organic materials are available, and each can affect how quickly this all occurs, so if you use corncobs or sawdust or feed corn, the performance will vary. If you used feed corn or sawdust, those more compact, higher density materials should allow up to 1200 pounds of material, three times as much, to be placed in the chamber.

• (2) (about the highest performance that seems practically possible for this size device, and which I have confirmed experimentally and which is in performance agreement with [expensive and complex] In-Vessel Composting systems where well-established approaches and devices cause all their material to be decomposed in 24 to 48 hours) This still requires the day or two initial period to get up to operating temperature; but then the decomposition is done at what appears to be its maximum rate, of around 10 pounds per hour in this arrangement. That level of decomposition creates around 90,000 Btus/hr, far more than the 40,000 to 50,000 that most houses in cold climates need for complete heating, even on the coldest night of a winter, but it decomposes the entire 400 pounds of material in only around 40 hours, meaning the chamber would be empty again only around two days later!

Both of these scenarios are describing the performance of the very SMALL version of the device, the HG 3a, described below. They tend to require a good deal of time and effort regarding loading material. Long ago, people used to load coal in a furnace to heat their homes, and it turns out that roughly the same total amount of weight of organic material needs to be loaded here as was done then. We note that there were companies and individuals who were available (for payment) to load the coal in those furnaces so the homeowner did not have any inconvenience, and that seems possible again with this HG 3a device.

It is certainly possible to make larger scale versions of this (which will then no longer fit through a standard doorway). One that is twice the dimensions could hold eight times as much material, or around 3200 pounds. Still at a decomposition rate of 5 pounds per hour (during January or February in a northern climate), that is full heat for about 640 hours or about 27 days of whole house heating before a new load of organic material needs to be loaded in it. Keep in mind that the building floor structure would then have to be able to support roughly the weight of a car, and the ceiling would need to be around 12 feet high for that particular size and shape! But the same diameter as a standard HG 3a could be made but twice as thick, etc, to increase the capacity. There are some structural considerations when such changes are made, such as stiffeners, which may be needed.

Cooking inside it seems to be an interesting ability, although there seems to be a slight complication due to the very slow tumbling of the device! The cooking action resembles a Crockpot or Slow-Cooker regarding the wonderful taste of the results, but also the time required. This capability requires a modification of the device's door structure, but it nicely cooks hamburgers and many other foods, although the 150ºF available temperature requires longer cooking times than on a stovetop. For example, hard-boiled eggs needs about two and a half hours to be fully done, but they seem to me to be even tastier than normal HB eggs, more delicate, possibly due to not needing the boiling water. In my opinion, cooked sweet corn (45 to 60 minutes) is more tender and delicious than when cooked in other ways. When the corn is cooked while still in the husk, it probably maintains all the natural vitamins as well, which get lost in standard cooking methods. The same seems to be true of other vegetables, possibly because I do not use water for any of those functions. It also does seem to virtually not matter how long the eggs, corn, vegetables or hamburgers are left in the cooker, as even after 12 hours my experiments have all been delicious! This method of cooking is absolutely safe, possibly even more so than conventional cooking, as ALL dangerous pathogens are easily killed at these temperatures, as long as the food rises to above 125ºF. With conventional cooking, sometimes the center of a thick piece of meat does not get up above that necessary 125ºF, where people can then still have E. coli and other pathogens still present in the meat. That is not possible here. However, "Rare" may not be a possibility, as the low heat for a long time penetrates completely through even thick items of food.

I have discovered that it also can brew amazingly tasty coffee and tea, similar to how "sun tea" is made that is so tasty! But where sun tea is generally rather weak, this system brews tea or coffee that is of conventional strength of taste. There is no harshness in the taste, really amazing.

(Sorry about these tangential comments from the heating system, but new and different uses seem to keep appearing for it!)

This 3a Version appears to have some major advantages. Several are due to the fact that the entire drum "tumbles" every hour or so. It move so slowly that it is hard to even notice that it is moving at all! The decomposing material inside does not "clump up" as some types of materials can tend to do over the time of the decomposition. This tumbling also allows more free access of the oxygen to all the material, which is why it is capable of such fast performance. Even the supply (puddle) of several gallons of excess water that we keep in the bottom tends to get stirred together with all the material, ensuring that all material has sufficient moisture available for good decomposition, again enhancing performance. Plenty of oxygen and plenty of water available to each tiny thermophilic bacterium! They love it! As a result, they decompose virtually anything that is organic very quickly. (Some types of material take longer, such as used car tires or used motor oil or most types of plastic or thick pieces of wood.) Another advantage is that the drum rotation could be slowed to once per day instead of once per hour, which degrades the performance somewhat for lower heat production, by nicely slowing down the rate of consumption of the material when less heat is needed for the house. (Slower decomposing material, such as straw, can also be used to cause less heat production.)

This (small) Version of the HeatGreen home heating system is capable of producing all the heat you could want, but it also can consume the organic materials you put into it very rapidly, but only because its capacity is so small! That means that this small system CAN provide all the heat necessary to entirely heat a moderate-sized house in the worst of the winter, BUT for only two or three days before it would need to again be filled with another 400 pounds of material! This seems rather labor-intensive, and so we also mention a larger-scale Version of this rotating HeatGreen system.

You will build a device that resembles a large exercise wheel for a hamster. Or a Galapagos Tortoise, as it is very slow moving. We will describe one that is about five feet in diameter and two feet thick, such that it can be carried through standard doorways. As noted above, that size has an internal volume of around 40 cubic feet. At a density of the organic material put into it of 10 pounds per cubic foot, that means around 400 pounds of organic material will be present to decompose, which will give off a total of around 3,500,000 Btus of heat energy during that decomposition process. (Some organic materials are more compact than that, such as feed corn, where more weight of material can be put in it at a time.

(These are simple and inexpensive enough to build, requiring only around $200 of materials from a local store, that it could make sense to build two of them for your house. You would schedule loading material in them at different times, so that the two days while the process is beginning would not be a problem, as the other one would be fully heating the house for those two days. Also, if your water supply or air supply to one of them was interrupted, the other one could still be comfortably heating your house.)

Parts Materials

Function	Quantity	Item	Retail Cost
Main Structure Sidewalls	2	sheets of 3/4" thick GOOD QUALITY CDX plywood, of 5- or 7-plies.	$21.44 * 2 = $42.88
Main Structure Perimeter	1	sheet of 1/4" thick plywood.	$13.88
Side Insulation	4 2" thick or 8 1" thick	sheets of 4x8' foam building insulation, 2" or 1" thick, either interior (white) or exterior (underground).	either $6.49 each for interior 1" or $12.29 for exterior 1" each. I spent $47.92
Perimeter Insulation	4	sheets of 4x8' foam building insulation, 1" thick, interior (white)	$6.49 each or $25.96
Attach foam	several tubes	foam adhesive (like PL300).	$3.99 each or $11.97
Screws	several boxes	#10 by 1.5" woodscrews.	$2.24 each per 25 or $6.72
Waterproof barrier	1	a reinforced plastic tarp, around 16 by 20 feet or larger	$14.98
Interior structure and water holder	1	100-foot roll of 1.25" or 1.5" (black) polyethylene water line (BLUE label is for potable water)	1.25" is $32.48
Fittings for that pipe	misc	adaptors, clamps, tees	.
Axle mounts	2	1" pipe flanges	$3.18 each
Air path	misc	4" PVC elbows and pipe	.
Axles	2	1" iron pipe sections at least 6" long.	.
Water pipe connections	2		.
Air path	2	standard flexible dryer vent hoses.	.
Water connections	2	standard washing machine supply hoses.	.
misc	misc	miscellaneous pipe adaptors and hardware.	.

This should total around $200 of materials.

If weight is not considered an issue, it would even be possible to build this out of Corten steel, which is resistant to nearly all types of degradation.

I give permission for any person or company to build as many as 20 of these units without further permission. Beyond that number, I do NOT give authorization without a written (paper) authorization. Specifically, I do NOT give permission to any company to mass produce my invention, made out of any material, such as out of a material such as PVC, without my approval.

Construction

On a sheet of the thick plywood, make a mark 30.25" from one end and 17.75" from a long side (or 30.25" from the opposite long side). This will become the location of the axle centerline, so you can now drill a small hole there. Using that location and a 30.25" long stick or string, draw a circle around that point. The circle should just touch the opposite edge of the plywood as well as the end of the sheet. Using a sabre saw, carefully cut out that piece.
It represents most of one side of the structure, and should be 60.5" in total diameter with a D-shaped piece missing. Place this piece on top of the remaining piece of the plywood sheet, and trace out the edge, where the curve passes through a point that is 12.5" from the (opposite) end of the sheet. When this D-shaped piece is cut out, it is the remaining part of the full circle. These dimensions were chosen such that the full circle of the full side can be made from a single sheet of plywood. Do the same for the other sheet to get the opposite side of the structure.
Provisions for the axle now need to be installed. I have been installing "1-inch pipe flanges" at the center of both side circles, and using bolts and nuts to secure them rather than the usual woodscrews. Put the CARRIAGE BOLT heads INSIDE the chamber so that there are no sharp projections to rub against the plastic tarp. Countersunk FLAT-HEAD machine bolts could also be used here. The later pipe nipples of 1" pipe are strong enough to be the axle shaft and do not bend with the weight of all the material in the chamber.
Next, the sheets of side foam insulation can be marked out and cut very much like the plywood sheets were, except that now the desired radius is 34.25" instead of 30.25". Foam adhesive works great in mounting them. The foam is added as two separate 2" layers, or four separate 1" layers, to have an insulation rating of R-20. These side insulation slabs extend 4" beyond the circular body, so that sheets of the 1" layers of (white) foam for the circumference can be cut down the middle to get strips of 24" by 96". THAT foam MUST be the 1" thick size, and the interior type, so it can be bent enough to follow the curvature of the perimeter. If you work in a warm area, the white circumference foam should be able to bend to follow the curvature. (Exterior foam is higher density and therefore more rigid and brittle, and would break). Again, four layers of the foam around the edges provides the desired R-20 insulation. At this point, only the foam for the one side can be mounted, with the rest of the insulation being attached later. But even it can be left for later to avoid it being damaged during construction. All the foam can be added once the device is supported on its pedestal stand, where it can be rotated to ease addition of the foam pieces. None of this foam is ever likely to be exposed to moisture, so white is fine, where the outdoor or underground type is required for wet locations. You could always get another poly tarp and surround the whole device, for example if it could ever be rained on.
Cut the thin plywood sheet (crossways, so that it can be bent easiest) into four pieces which are now each 24" by 48". They will be the "rim" which surrounds the two side circles to form the main body of the device. The thin plywood can be bent enough to follow that gentle curvature of the circle edges. The strips of the thin plywood are therefore screwed to the outer edge of the plywood circle, with two of the four pieces straddling the joint with the D-shaped piece for greatest strength and durability. For reasons that will be clear shortly, it is actually easiest if you ONLY screw the thin plywood pieces to ONE of the two circles at this time. This results in the thin plywood trying to flare out. A simple way to deal with this is with a 20-foot long piece of rope, which is temporarily tied around the loose edges of those thin plywood pieces to resemble the circle that they will eventually be. A tow-rope or a load-binder could also be used. You might notice the (white) indication of the construction adhesive used to join the sidewalls to the circular pieces. Also note that the joints between those four pieces are carefully arranged to not be at the same location where the joints between the two parts of the circle are, for greater structural strength.
You now have a 60.5" diameter disk with a two-foot-high circular barrier around it.
Place the tarp inside that pit, relatively centered. It actually is slightly off center, such that all the edges of it can reach the opening you will later make in the second circular unit to feed material into the device. That makes sure that the tarp has no edges or seams or overlaps inside the chamber which might someday become less than water-tight.
Get the coil of poly pipe. We show the pipe as it is bought, along with some of the hose clamps which will be used with it.
What you are going to do is follow the natural curved shape of that poly pipe (because it is bought in a coil). You are going to use two standard hose clamps, but not in the traditional way. You will use a short piece of metal barstock, between two turns of coil of the pipe, to clamp each of the two clamps to which makes a poly pipe circle of a very specific and very sturdy diameter. You will slightly increase the diameter of the first loop, up to where the OUTSIDE diameter is slightly over 60.5". The two clamps are on the two turns of the coil, with the end one about a foot or two from the very end of the poly pipe, but the two clamps are linked together to establish this sturdy diameter. When they are tightened, they will fix that outside diameter of that ring of poly pipe to slightly greater than the diameter dimension you choose. That diameter is chosen so that the coil will be a very tight fit, virtually a press-fit, inside the chamber. When it is pressed down into the corner of the chamber, it will securely hold the tarp in the corner there. Roughly one foot of the pipe extends beyond where the clamp is, so that a water connection can be made. It is very important to make sure that no sharp corners of any metal could ever rub against and tear the tarp. Wrapping a layer of non-biodegradable duct-like tape is a reasonable way of protecting the tarp surface from all the clamps.
There are also around eight to a dozen extra clamps needed on that first turn of pipe. (the photo shows only the first loop in place, with the rest of the poly pipe still waiting to be spread out to press against the circular walls.) The extra hose clamps will be roughly equally spaced around the circumference of the ring, to be able to clamp upward metal spacer bars securely to the pipe and later also to the identical poly coil which will be made for the opposite corner of the chamber. The spacer bars can be either 1/8 by 3/8 flatbar strips or 5/16 or 3/8 diameter round rod. For the standard size of chamber described here, 24 inch long pieces of that rod or bar are fine. Around 2.5 inches from each end, a right angle bend is made, with the result being a sturdy spacer bar which will keep the two outermost coils of poly pipe at 19.25 inches apart. (The curved plywood perimeter is 24 inches, minus two pieces of side plywood and the two diameters of poly pipe, leaving very close to 19.25 inch separation needed).
Notice that the detail of the narrow photo here shows that I put a twist in the flatbar stock, which allows the barstock to fit more closely along the sidewalls, which allows the poly pipe to fit better. The radius of the first and last loop keeps the pipe pressed against the outer (circular) wall and the spacer bars keep the pipe circles pressed firmly against the sidewalls. The rest of the pipe, around five turns, is reasonably snugly pressed against the outer wall. A few additional standard stainless steel hose clamps are used to clamp the intermediate loops to a FEW of the spacer bars, to keep them spaced apart across the width of the chamber, roughly with 3" spacing between each loop. I am also experimenting with other methods of affixing the poly pipe to the spacer bars. The cheapest and simplest is to use electrical Cable Ties, (shown as the attachment type in the next photo here, to attach to the middle spacer bar shown, but nearly invisible because they are black) but I have doubts whether they will be able to stay tight over the years due to the heat and the motion. I suspect that when I check them in a few years, they may be loose! I am also experimenting with using 16 inch long pieces of scrap SOLID house wiring, wrapped DOUBLE around the pipe and spacer bar (shown in the rightmost portion of the next photo, again with black insulation on the wires so they are hard to see).. They figure to be durable, but again the motion over several years may loosen them. But they are much less expensive than the hose clamps which are clearly the best. So I am just using the standard stainless hose clamps on just the two opposite spacer bars, one being shown near the left side in that next photo) which should ensure that the poly pipe will never be able to go very far anywhere. The Cable Ties and pieces of wire are therefore not critical in the operation, and I consider them somewhat optional. If it turns out that Cable Ties will still be fairly tight after several years, that may be the future way to go.
This photo has all the turns of poly pipe securely attached. Notice that the actual spacing of the poly pipe is not critical, and I have some variation in the demo setup. One of the main functions of this poly pipe is therefore to press the tarp against the circular corner, without needing any kind of adhesive. A second function CAN BE to contain water which will get heated. If 1.25" poly is used, the full hundred feet of it will hold and heat up around 8 gallons of water at a time. If 1.5" poly is used, 14 gallons. If 2" poly is used, around 24 gallons. If 3" poly can be found at a tolerable price, it would hold around 50 gallons of water at a time. Four-inch poly exists, but it is sold in straight sections rather than in a coil, which makes its use a little more difficult, although that would contain even more water at a time. For really big water capacities, rigid PVC 4 inch pipe is probably best and easiest. We find the 8 or 14 gallon to be sufficient, since new water coming in gets heated quite quickly due to all the tube surface area exposed to the 150ºF environment inside the chamber. Even 8 gallons of 150ºF water mixes with about 14 gallons of 55ºF tap water to easily fill a bathtub with 22 gallons of wonderful 90ºF bath water! Showers use less hot water and are even more reliable. Washing many consecutive loads of clothes in the hottest of water might be a reason to consider the larger diameter poly, or multiple coils of it inside the structure. Below, we will calculate that if all the hot water is removed, it generally only takes about 15 minutes for new cold water to become heated fully to the 150ºF, so those hot baths could be repeated all day long, as long as they were at about 15 minute intervals! The two outer rings of pipe therefore press the tarp into the corners of the chamber, without any adhesive and without any fasteners which might have to penetrate the tarp. At the very ends of the coil of pipe, standard barbed elbows are attached. (the gray barbed fitting is seen near the very middle of this inner photo, elbowed up which will be extended against the sidewall). One end will be connected to an input water supply (of cold water) and the other will be connected to an output pipe of hot water. This arrangement ensures that ONLY hot water could possibly be provided, that any new cold water has to pass through the entire 100-foot length of the coil of pipe, and be fully heated up, before it could ever get to the output connector. There are alternate ways of installing and spacing this poly pipe. Keep in mind that its primary function is to press the tarp tightly into the corners of the chamber. Having water inside it is simply a bonus regarding making hot water! By using an entire 100-foot long roll of the poly pipe, there are minimal pipe fittings that could ever later leak. It turns out that the tumbling action of hundreds of pounds of the organic material tends to knock loose any poorly attached spacers or clamps!
The second plywood circle can now be installed, again using construction adhesive and screws. Obviously, all the tarp edges are first pushed into the chamber, as shown in the first photo here. Realize that the tarp has covered up the TOPMOST circle of poly pipe, which will therefore press the tarp nicely into the circular corner there. The tarp edges will later be pulled snug along the inside surface (not visible) so that all the edges of the tarp will extend through the material feeder opening, which is indicated by the lines marked out in the second photo here. This particular unit was made to have a 16" square feed door. I generally climbed on top of this second plywood piece, to squeeze the poly pipes and spacers inside so that everything was snug inside the chamber, and so that the top edge of this plywood piece matches up with the upper edges of the curved perimeter plywood pieces. This makes sure that nothing can move around inside the chamber. Good quality construction adhesive and screws are again used to construct this. You can also see in the second photo here where the remaining D-shaped piece of plywood will go. Please ignore the two PVC closet (toilet) floor flanges in the photo because a better way has been found to install the air tubes. You obviously realize that the tarp edges will be pulled through the opening and secured on the OUTSIDE of the side plywood. This will ensure that there are NO openings anywhere in the tarp surface inside the chamber, where water or water vapor could ever escape and cause unplanned decomposition of the structure itself! As long as you did not puncture the tarp anywhere, it should now essentially be able to hold water, except where the feed door assembly will be attached.
This photo shows the device with the remaining D-shaped piece of plywood added and then a trapezoidal-shaped hole was cut. This hole accomplishes many functions. We made this hole 16" in height, approximately centered between the axle shaft and the perimeter (about 7" from each). We made the top 16" wide to allow the 16" square access opening, and we made the bottom 26" wide to permit space for the large PVC pipes. First, the hole allows all the edges of the poly tarp inside to stick through, so there are NO holes or punctures anywhere in the inner tarp surface, which should make it absolutely water-tight and vapor-tight. There will be a piece of discarded industrial conveyor belting cut to be mounted over this opening, which will have five different holes cut in it. (1) a large 16-inch square hole will have a removable door over it, to allow loading in the organic materials and possibly reach inside to remove anything that has not decomposed. The hole is trapezoid-shaped to allow space for (2,3) two 4" PVC schedule-40 pipes (one through each of the wider corners). Above the PVC pipes are (4,5) two smaller holes for the poly water pipes which are inside. This hole and the covering piece of conveyor belting is large enough that if it should ever become necessary to do any work inside the chamber, it should be possible to have suitable access in there. The second photo simply shows all the edges of the poly tarp being brought out through that hole, to show how they will all be extended a little way along the outside and then tacked or stapled to the outside, several inches back from the edges of the hole. All those edges will actually simply get pinched between the plywood sidewall and the thick piece of conveyor belting, which will securely hold it in place.
These next two photos show the device standing up in its correct upright position, with 10" long (galvanized) pipes threaded in the pipe flanges, and those pipe sections supported on sturdy triangular support pillars. The support stand has stiffeners to make sure that it could not move or collapse when a lot of weight of organic material and water is inside. We also added 6" x 24" stiffeners of the 3/4" plywood scraps over each of the seams of the perimeter 1/4" plywood, which otherwise tends to bulge out a little there. Even with no actual bearings at all, and just the pipe sections resting on the top of the support pillars, the device rotates extremely easily. Just the couple pounds difference due to the missing wood from the hole tends to make it want to rotate so that the hole is generally upward, which indicates that only a very small motor is needed to rotate it. When the heavy piece of conveyor belting is added and the fill door, the weight changes enough that it then wants to turn the other way. A counterweight can be added opposite the fill opening, to either balance it or to get it to want to keep the fill hole naturally upward. These two pictures obviously do not yet show the white foam insulation layers, or the conveyor belting material piece or the pipe connections or the entry door. You can note that the two pictures show the device in positions about 60 degrees apart, which commonly takes about 15 minutes to move that far. Once the foam is added, not much else is then visible except for the hole and piece of conveyor material, pipe ends and feed door. The stiffeners we added to the chamber mean that the first layer of the 1" white foam insulation needs to be cut shorter to fit between those stiffeners, but that then allows the other three layers to fit excellently. (seen below) We intentionally included a conventional room door in the photos to confirm that the size of this device is between 5 and 6 feet in diameter, and a little over two feet in total thickness.
The first photo here shows the first layer of the one-inch white foam skipping the area where we added the stiffeners. The second photo here shows the four layers of that foam in place.
The first photo here shows the entire device with the perimeter foam in place (although a small section of the outer layer is not yet in place in this photo). The front will soon be covered by the side foam, and the piece of scrap conveyor belting will cover over the trapezoid hole, where only the final 16-inch square hole will remain and the two pairs of pipes adjacent to it. The second photo here shows the perimeter of the unit. This shows the foam left exposed. We do not see any major reason that cannot be left, with a few related thoughts. The white foam is very susceptible to being damaged, so if the device is where it might be bothered by kids or pets, it might make sense to go to the extra trouble of covering it with thin (masonite) paneling or wall paneling or even an external tarp. The white foam also disintegrates pretty quickly if it gets wet, so if that is a possibility, then the same should be done. It can also be painted, decorated, to become an active artistic object. If it is in a location in the house, kids' school projects or awards could be attached to it, where they would forever be moving around. The blue or pink foam is far more resistant to moisture and abrasion, BUT it tends to shatter rather than bend around the curvature, so if you try to use that material, be very careful about that.
The next two photos show the piece of surplus conveyor belting I like to use for around the door and pipes. Companies that use such industrial conveyors need to occasionally replace the belting. They do NOT like to have to pay to have it hauled away, so many such companies tend to have some piles of discarded conveyor belting lying somewhere out in a field. They seem to enjoy the chance to get rid of some of it (for free!). But I have never asked for just two feet of it! I generally have taken whatever piece of scrap belting they had easiest access to. They seem to commonly chop it apart into 50 to 100 foot long pieces, just so they could more easily haul it away. The belting that I have used has all been of a thickness of 0.400 inch, but the thickness for our purposes is irrelevant. The one shown here was from a 36 inch wide conveyor (width is also irrelevant) and the piece used here was squared out to 26 inches long (high in our case). The upper corners were trimmed to better fit against the plywood backing. You may be able to see around a dozen small holes we drilled for the mounting bolts to pass through it. The first picture shows the surplus conveyor piece with the 16 inch square hole that will be for the access door, and the two smaller round holes for the poly water pipes and the two larger round holes for the two 4 inch PVC sewer lines. The second photo here is because these details are not easily seen when the items are mounted on the unit. It shows that a 90 degree street elbow immediately goes through each of the larger holes, one pointed up and the other down. The reason for this may turn out not to actually be that important, but we think it might be. You will be feeding in air, consisting primarily of oxygen and nitrogen into one of these large pipes (on the far side), and "used air" containing a substantial amount of carbon dioxide will therefore be pushed out the other (nearer pipe). It turns out that carbon dioxide is more than 1.5 times as dense as normal air. We believe that there is very little air motion inside the chamber, so maybe a good deal of the carbon dioxide might settle toward the bottom (rather than the normal action of simply mixing with the air). So we provide the longer (26") PVC pipe going downward to be able to remove the gases down near the bottom, which we expect to contain an excess of carbon dioxide. This, while the air/oxygen that we are sending in might tend to initially stay nearer the top, so we provide the upward (11") pipe to cause the air sent in to stay farther from the used gases that we want to exhaust. It will require thorough chemical analysis to determine this, but for now we are assuming it to happen. In the event that the carbon dioxide and air mix more than we are expecting, the only real difference is that a larger blower is needed to expel more of the air inside the chamber to replace it with fresh air for the bacteria to use. IF the "exhaust" gases are to be used to (later) provide increased carbon dioxide for a high-performance greenhouse, we think this simple feature might allow a greater percentage of carbon dioxide in that exhausted air, while also then requiring less power in the air blower to cause that circulation. Once this assembly is in place, none of it is easily visible, so it is shown here separate from the device. Finally, not yet shown here are the standard "closet (toilet) flanges" to mount those pipes really securely without having to make any holes in the tarp lining inside the chamber. But since the street elbows have some radius, we found it necessary to mount the closet flanges slightly raised up, on 2x10 lumber scraps, to get the PVC pipes inside the chamber nearer to the side wall, to less interfere with the movement of all the material that you will put inside it to tumble around. These flanges and the mounting will be more obvious in the next photos.
The plumbing (and potentially air) connections would be an additional problem if the device was allowed to always rotate in one direction. There ARE special rotary fittings available but they tend to be expensive. Instead, we have designed it where the entire assembly rocks back and forth, ONLY ROTATING ABOUT 3/4 turn and then reversing. All of the material inside still gets to be gravity-tumbled inside, but the plumbing and air path connections become far simpler. The air hoses for air/oxygen in and carbon dioxide out can then be simple standard clothes dryer vent flexible hoses. The water connections can be standard hoses used to connect a washing machine to house piping. They should all last a number of years. Keep in mind that this rotates so slowly that it is hard to even notice, the FASTEST being around once per hour. (A tiny (hobby) electric motor which might be used to rotate the drum might then be DIRECT CURRENT, where simply using a relay to reverse the wires makes the motor turn the other way, so it could oscillate back and forth its 270º of rotation. This limited rotation aspect also permits adding a "cooking chamber" which would never have to cross under the mass of material inside the chamber.

You have scraps of pieces of the thicker plywood. An optional feature you might consider is to cut out a number of arc shaped pieces, which have an inner radius of maybe 28" and an outer radius of slightly over 34.5". They would be mounted to either of the side wood circles (by screws and construction adhesive) such that a larger radius of the plywood (of just over 34.5") is present there. The only purpose for this is so the wood could extend beyond the 4" thick of foam insulation which will surround the entire structure. A tiny motor could then rub against that (circular) edge to very slowly rotate it. The rotation rate only needs to be once per hour, so a very tiny motor would be fine for that. (It CAN be rotated faster if you wish but there is no known advantage in doing so.)

A "trap door" then must be made in one of the sides. It should not be closer than 6" from the circular rim, but can otherwise be of somewhat optional shape and size. It will provide a way for you to reach inside to mount the few last small items, and it will also be the opening through which you will later add organic materials. It obviously should be large enough so both of these tasks are as easy as possible.

The door needs to fit decently tightly, and it needs to have a SEPARABLE provision for its two or four layers of foam insulation attached to it. The outdoor foam can be an advantage for the outermost layer, just to be more abrasion resistant.

The "remaining items" are the water pipe connections and the airflow connections.

We know that we desire a standard decomposition rate of around 5 pounds of material per hour, with a maximum of 10 pounds per hour. From our previous discussions in related web-pages regarding the biochemistry of what is going on, we know that this will create around 45,000 Btu/hr (90,000 Btu/hr) of heat. We also can calculate the amount of air needed and exhaust removed for those decomposition rates. You can confirm this with the equations given in those other pages. We learned that about 12.6 gram-moles of chemical reaction occurs per hour. The five pounds of glucose combines with about 5.3 pounds of oxygen in the intake air, to form about 7.3 pounds of carbon dioxide and about 3 pounds of water (or water vapor). Air is only around 1/5 oxygen, so we will need around 26 pounds of air per hour, each of which takes up around 13 cubic feet. This means that we need an INFLOW of around 338 cubic feet per hour, or 6 cubic feet per minute (6 CFM). Because of the Law of Partial Pressures, the outgoing exhaust air cannot be more than around 4.4% carbon dioxide. We know that we need to exhaust about 7.3 pounds of carbon dioxide every hour, so this means that we need to exhaust around 140 pounds of exhaust AIR each hour, which each take up around 14 cubic feet (due to the higher temperature of that exhaust gas). This tells us that we should expect to need to exhaust around 1960 cubic feet per hour of air or 33 CFM.

We should use this larger number regarding the exhaust in designing the airflow through the system. When we reduce the actual airflow, the main effect is that there is still a lot of carbon dioxide near the bacteria, so they can less easily get to oxygen, which can slow down the process. In other words, we can have a moderate level of control as to how efficiently the bacteria are decomposing the material in the chamber by how regularly we have the small blower pushing new air/oxygen into the chamber. We may also want to double that capability, in case we should ever want it to decompose the maximum 10 pounds per hour, which means we should provide airpath sizes where 66 CFM of air can pass. We choose to use a 4" dryer duct size of connection for the airflows, along with a very small blower (in the INLET side) which can move around that level of airflow. This is actually a convenient size, as it means that commonly available flexible dryer vent hose can be used.

The (two) 4" diameter holes are made with their centerlines 4" in from the outer edge (in other words, 27" from the axle. We chose to use (toilet) closet floor flanges, to be able to ensure that we can mount them with no moisture or air leaks due to the fact that we have to penetrate the tarp there. Caulking is used UNDER the flange (and against the tarp) for this reason. Flat-headed bolts are used to mount these closet flanges rather than the usual wood screws, for better strength and durability.

One is mounted near one side of the circle, and the other is mounted on the opposite side of the (same side) circle. One will generally stay near the top (due to the oscillatory motion) and it will provide air/oxygen IN for the device, but ONLY when it is near the top as it rotates. The other will then be near the bottom, where the more dense (heavier) carbon dioxide tends to accumulate. Due to the air/oxygen being pushed into the chamber by the blower, the carbon dioxide will be forced out through that lower hole. Standard 4" PVC elbows and pipe sections (just beyond the 4" thickness of the insulation) gets this connection to be near the axle shaft where the flexible dryer vent hose attaches to it there, to finally connect to 4" PVC pipes which are mounted to the fixed support stand of the system.

If the capability of providing domestic hot water is to be also used, those connections can be handled in similar ways, where the connection uses standard (flexible) clothes washing machine supply hoses for the water connections, also near the axle of the system so that there is minimal actual motion of the flexible hoses. Such hoses usually come with a built-in filter which should be removed for greater water flow rates.

This (smaller) unit has a total diameter of around 5'9" so it can easily be carried (or rolled) through normal doorways. However, the width dimension of what we have described here is essentially 32", so if it has to pass through a standard 32" wide interior doorway, you may need either hold off installing one layer of the side foam or remove the casing trim of the doorway!

This unit has a total surface area of about 72.5 square feet. The insulation that we have described is all R-20. The temperature difference if this unit is placed in the heated portion of a house is around (145ºF - 70ºF) 75ºF. This indicates that the heat loss outward through the insulation is 72.5 * 75 / 20 or 272 Btu/hr. This very minimal loss allows the contents of the chamber to rapidly get up to its operating temperature. (This very low value might indicate that future units might not need quite as much insulation, to still perform well.)

When the chamber contains 400 pounds of organic material and also 200 pounds of water, the thermal capacity is around 350 Btu/degree. That means that it first requires 350 times 75ºF or 26,000 Btus of heat to be internally developed to first get up to 150ºF. It also means that the interior material can release 350 * 25ºF or around 9,000 Btus of energy in dropping the interior temperature the 25ºF from 150ºF down to 125ºF, the general range of operation of the thermophilic bacteria of this device. If the entire amount of 150ºF hot water is removed (as for clothes washing or a really hot bath), when the pipe all fills with cold (55ºF) water, it briefly uses much of the capability of the system to heat up all that new water up to the 150ºF, a process that generally should only take around 15 minutes of the heat to accomplish. The warm air heating capability therefore drops somewhat when large amounts of hot water are withdrawn, but recovery is generally within 15 minutes max.

Getting Heat Out For the House

• Used essentially like a room space heater, such as ventless gas logs in a fireplace or a natural gas or propane or kerosene space heater. Neither the air/oxygen intake nor the exhaust pipe is connected to anything. This process is so extremely efficient and complete at decomposing all organic materials which are made of hydrocarbons and carbohydrates that it can safely be used in that manner. In that case, it is nearly 100% efficient, but there are two considerations which are important. First, an ODS-sensor (Oxygen Depletion Sensor) could be important if used in a limited space as it WILL use up the oxygen in that space and might therefore represent a safety concern. A separately purchased ODS sensor could either shut down the operation of the device or it might bring in an external supply of air.

  A variant of this is therefore to have the INTAKE tube (and its blower) connected to an intake duct so that it always accesses air from outdoors or a basement, such that it would therefore not use the oxygen up in the living space.

  This approach would allow the "exhaust gases" to simply exit into the room, identical to the way that natural gas or kerosene or propane space heaters do, or that kitchen cooking ranges often do. This is Officially considered safe because the result of the process of COMPLETE COMBUSTION (burning) in such products are ONLY water vapor and carbon dioxide. That is also true of this HeatGreen 3a device, where the decomposition of the organic hydrocarbons and carbohydrates also results in those same water and carbon dioxide products. HOWEVER, there are a couple differences. IF you would somehow not provide sufficient oxygen/air for the device, the decomposition process could become anaerobic rather than aerobic, which then could cause the decomposition process to result in creating hydrogen sulfide, methane, ammonia and other gases as product gases. Methane itself has no odor but if substantial amounts of it were produced it could represent a hazard. And IF you dump materials such as random food scraps into the chamber which are NOT entirely hydrocarbons or carbohydrates, then some smells could be produced which would directly enter the living space. The fact that it COULD happen means that ammonia gas or hydrogen sulfide gas or other such gases could represent nasty smells. It means that a careful selection of the materials dumped in the chamber would be important, if this DIRECT, space-heater usage, is to be used. (An exhaust hose connection could always later be added if any of these issues were later discovered to be a problem).

  Also, as with room space heaters and unvented gas fireplace logs, the indoor relative humidity can greatly rise due to adding so much additional water vapor to the room air, so condensation could occur on cold windows, etc.

  Note also that this usage would therefore require that all the needed organic materials would have to be carried through the living area of the house. This has long sometimes been a complaint of heating with a woodstove, where the path from the door to the stove has often been littered with things which have fallen off the firewood as it was carried. That issue is even more present when the material is in the form of cut lawn grass or hay or straw!

  This configuration is excellently suited for heating a greenhouse as the resulting carbon dioxide and water vapor are both beneficial to the plant growth, along with the heating.

• The "exhaust" pipe from this device could be extended to a living area separate from where the device actually is. This would still have the odor possibilities described above, but would allow greater flexibility in providing heat to other locations. In other words, the device could be installed in a location outside the living area, such as a basement or garage, such that the organic materials would then not have to be carried through the living area of the house. The overall efficiency is slightly less as the radiant and convective losses of the device itself would not represent productive heat for the house.

• The "exhaust" pipe could be greatly extended THROUGH ROOMS OF THE HOUSE and/or run through a heat-exchanger. In the 1970s, people sometimes tried to have a woodstove's smokepipe go long distances horizontally so more heat from it radiated out to the room. For a woodstove, that was a very bad idea, as it caused large amounts of dangerous creosote to condense in those horizontal runs of smokepipe and also greatly reduced the NATURAL draft of the fire. This device is very different, in not being able to create creosote in the first place and also in having a small blower which always provides the necessary "DRAFT" for the decomposition.

  The blower used to drive air into the chamber would ensure that sufficient flow rates are present. The exhaust pipe would here extend to outdoors, much like the PVC exhaust of a modern high-efficiency condensing furnace. This approach eliminates any change of odors entering the living space, but it reduces the overall efficiency due to the fact that some heat will remain in the exhaust gases which will therefore be lost outdoors. If the heat exchange system is extensive, this approach can have extremely high overall efficiency.

• Any of the intake and any of the exhaust provisions described here could be combined, with the unit either inside the living space or in a basement or garage.

• The extensive water heating capability of this system can be used to provide heat for a hydronic house heating system. A hydronic circulating pump would transfer the produced heat to radiators in the desired house living spaces. The amount of poly tubing described in the instructions above would only be able to capture and therefore provide around 27,000 Btu/hr of the 45,000 or 90,000 Btu/hr that the device can generate. Some of that generated heat would also be lost in the exhaust gases (unless one of the exhaust heat capture methods mentioned above are added). Installation of additional poly pipe could be useful to be able to capture more heat energy into the water inside the chamber.

  Conventional hydronic heating room radiators can be used. Even (ugly) car radiator(s) could be used for the heat exchangers for this approach.

• The air/oxygen intake and exhaust pipes could be extended to outdoors or basement spaces while the device itself could be within the living space of the house. (This was the first concept used with this device.) Some portions of the surrounding insulation can be selectively removed and a large blower or fan used to cause house or room air to blow against those exposed surfaces, so that heat is convectively transferred to the house air. This could be either used to provide heat for the room that it is in or the entire device could be surrounded with an air chamber to be able to use ducting to send the heat throughout a standard house ducting system to provide warm air heat to many different rooms simultaneously.

• Several different of these methods can be used simultaneously. A portion of the generated heat could be captured by the poly tubes inside to be transferred to a distant room where hydronic heating radiators are used, while heat directly off the the device could warm a garage, while heat is also provided to house warm air ducts.

  Storing the Organic Materials

  If you are able to mow the lawn all year, you may not need to store amounts of the material to decompose for a winter. But most of us live in climates where we need to plan ahead.

  It is impossible to store most organic very long if they are not dried out, as the decomposition process will occur naturally in the presence of moisture, resulting in rotting and decay (and foul smells due to anaerobic processes occurring). Therefore, if you need to store materials for more than a week or two, you need to dry it out. Farmers have long had appropriate processes, in drying hay and straw before baling it up to be able to last many months. Also in drying feed corn for storage in grain silos. Even in leaving corncobs and crop debris out in the fields so that the sun can dry it all out naturally. Essentially the same processes can be used to dry cut grass and leaves in order to bale them up for later use.

  Such bales then obviously need to be stored in a dry location. When they get damp, they start to rot and decay. THAT can sometimes cause an unexpected hazard in large stacks of hay bales! If one of the bales got wet, the decomposition process can begin, which creates the heat we have been discussing. There have been cases where large stacks of hay bales have spontaneously caught fire due to such internally generated heat. Therefore, really large stacks of hay bales should be avoided.

  Similarly, great care needs to be taken regarding WHERE these bales are stored! If a single person wanders by and tosses a cigarette butt onto the stack of bales, a very serious problem can quickly develop. So you need to find a location where such a danger either cannot occur or if it does, it would not affect too much else. Farmers generally store hay bales in a building separate from where they keep valuable animals or equipment for this reason.

  The storage of so much material that has been very well dried, and which is therefore extremely combustible, is a matter that requires great attention to ensure safety.

• I have discovered that there may be a peculiar way to "wash the dishes" without any soap or really water! It turns out that if a frying pan or pot or dishes is put INSIDE THE DECOMPOSING CHAMBER (and not in a separate cooking chamber), then the thermophilic bacteria simply consume EVERYTHING that is organic! In other words, all food scraps and dried eggs, but also ALL dangerous pathogens in the materials that might cause us harm. You may be aware that one of the most contaminated objects in your kitchen is the scrubbing pad you use to clean your dishes, because it always retains some of the dangerous pathogens on it, which then grow, for the next time you do the dishes. THIS concept is capable of such extreme sterilization that it should be of hospital grade cleanliness! However, I HAVE found a downside to this! It always seems to take at least 12 hours to complete, and I often feel more comfortable with 24 hours. It is also sort of weird to be pulling a (very hot) frying pan from out of all the nasty-looking organic materials that are degrading and then just pitch some eggs in it! Still, it probably is technically more pathogen-free than the Municipal water which is chlorinated from my kitchen tap which I tend to use to rinse it off first!

• This device is an excellent source of hot air for drying clothes after washing them. No fossil fuels are used.

• This device's extensive water heating ability (as described above) turns out to be wonderful for heating an indoor swimming pool or an indoor hot tub. I suspect it will turn out that in summer, it will also be great to heat an outdoor pool or hot tub!

• There seems to be a way to supply several different levels of safe water. Here is the most pure. If you are familiar with a solar evaporator or a still, you know that it is possible to take ANY quality of water and evaporate (boil) it so it becomes a gas (and it therefore leaves all the minerals and impurities behind in the remaining water or as solids if all the water is evaporated). In a solar evaporator, that hot air, containing water vapor, is then blown to pass along a cold surface, such as a glass cover plate. The high amount of humidity in the air has to drop when the air becomes cooler, as there can never been greater than 100% relative humidity. If you wear eyeglasses in cold weather, you know that if you go indoors when the glasses are very cold, then the warm humid air in the house always condenses on the cold glass and fogs the glasses for a few minutes. A solar evaporator does that intentionally. However, solar evaporators are not very efficient at that, partly because they use the same piece of glass to allow the sun's heat in and also to chill the air inside. So solar evaporators CAN provide safe drinking water, but often only a quart or two per day, not very much and not very fast.

  We have a source of heat that does not need sunlight, so we do not need the glass surface. This also means that we do not need to pass the air near a rather warm piece of glass, but possibly far cooler (aluminum?) pipes that are cooled by 70ºF available (impure) water or even underground. The speed of condensation of the resulting Distilled Water should therefore be much faster than is possible with a solar evaporator, even though the process is exactly the same. Hopefully, I will soon have time to do some experiments to see if a 150ºF heat source and a 52ºF deep soil temperature might be able to provide decent amounts of very pure Distilled Water per hour or per day. Solar distillation has never been very popular because even getting one gallon of pure water per day is weather dependent. This seems to have the potential of providing maybe 10 to 30 gallons of very pure water every day, or possibly even more.

• Another approach for obtaining much large quantities of less pure water is available. Assuming that other processes are used to filter out dust and other impurities, and that the water does not contain significant dissolved mineral material, (both of those situations would be completely taken care of by the Distilled Water method discussed above) the remaining need would then be to kill off pathogens and other organic materials. The water could then be passed through the chamber, where the water was then heated to the 150ºF heat of the interior of the chamber. Any organic materials, specifically dangerous pathogens, would be killed by the heat in the HG 3a unit. Traditionally, this function has been done by adding chlorine to water. I am not sure that I see any advantage either way, except in not adding artificial chemicals to our water!

• Following this same theme just above, but more extreme: Imagine that there was a huge epidemic of something like Avian Flu or Ebola. Authorities have already told everyone to get three months of food supplies, such that each family could exist for three months without having contact with anyone else, due to the extreme danger of some epidemics. Authorities are aware that the Black Death in around 1340 AD killed around 1/3 of all the people living on the entire Earth, and that some of these recent dangers are very similar to that one.

  So imagine that you make a foot-square "tunnel" through your house's wall, with some insulation and end plugs, and you make it so that a nearby HG 3a could provide plenty of 150ºF air to fill that tunnel when you would want.

  So someone stops by OUTSIDE to leave you clothing or canned goods or bottled water or toys for your kids. They would place the items in your wall-tunnel, and you would then surround the items with the 150ºF air for half an hour or an hour. When you then let it all cool down and then bring the objects into your house, they would all be excellently sterilized, essentially to hospital-grade standards!

  Hopefully, no use like that would ever become necessary! But the same sort of use might be made in Third World countries where massive disease exists due to lack of being able to sterilize materials, clothing, food and water. Maybe there is some use in that direction.

This information is provided by a fairly intelligent Nuclear Physicist FOR FREE! I thought that was a nice and generous gesture! WHY do people think they deserve to get "free custom personal Engineering" or to receive whatever they might consider to be proof or to be allowed to annoy some happy family with hours of endless questions? This DID used to sometimes happen with the JUCA Super-Fireplace whole-house-heating woodstove that I DID actually sell for many years. The owners nearly always found it very annoying, except for people who THEY INVITED to their homes! But when a CUSTOMER was considering BUYING A PRODUCT, it seemed vaguely credible that they might want to annoy owners of my woodstoves like that. A woman from Alaska ended that! She DEMANDED that I give her a dozen names and phones of owners (who had each generously offered to talk to potential customers). I expected her to pick out one of the twelve, and then to make a politely brief phone call. But NOOOO! She spend a dozen evenings, calling each of those families for phone calls which I was told were all between two to three hours! The entire quiet evening for a family was gone for every single one of those wonderful families! (All that to consider buying a $1400 woodstove which we had GUARANTEED [since 1989] to be able to ENTIRELY HEAT ANY HOUSE.) But she alone managed to infuriate all dozen of those people, each of whom then immediately asked to have their names removed.

A single inconsiderate woman really destroyed a fine way that JUCA owners had been previously able to help people who are not familiar with the performance of JUCA units. Unbelievable. Now, do YOU think that I am going to put ANYONE at risk of having that happen to them, WHEN THERE IS NOT EVEN ANY PRODUCT BEING SOLD?

(I may have a very old Bridge in Manhattan to sell you if you do!) But separate from that, apparently no one has ever heard of the Gift Horse story! For the Free Air Conditioning, and for this HeatGreen system with its several configurations, and with the free system to monitor Children's Bodyfat in a fun and easy way, and in the method to try to drag Beached Whales back to the ocean, and on and on; IF you demand PROOF, then I would PREFER that you simply go away and stop bothering me. Go stare in the mouth of some horse somebody has offered to give to you! In fact, I make VERY sure that I provide massive Engineering and scientific proofs for each of the statements made regarding any of these systems which I offer.

You actually DO have access to a way to PROVE that the HG3a or the Free A/C works as described. You could HIRE a top quality Thermodynamics Engineer (at around $400/hour), and he/she can then duplicate the Engineering which I provide in the web-pages. A talented Engineer should be able to research that my information is sound and then calculate the needed things in maybe 25 to 40 hours of work. Of course, this means that you will have to pay that Engineer between $10,000 and $16,000 to confirm the information WHICH I HAVE GIVEN YOU FOR FREE!

In order that you not waste $200 on building materials from a local store!

I can only say, DUH!

Please do NOT be annoying me with demands for proof (before you dare spend $200 for materials), OR where you will insist that YOUR application IS UNIQUE and you therefore REQUIRE me to personally Engineer (the exact same unit) for your needs. IF you are willing to pay me at the standard $400/hour rate for such advanced Engineering, and will provide a Retainer for a number of hours to start with, I MIGHT be willing to listen. But probably still NO! If you are so convinced that you have a totally unique situation, then get that local Engineer to do the Engineering and Design for you!

The Earth's Rotation as a Source for Energy
Waste Nuclear Power For Making Electricity And Heat?
The Physics of Efficiency In Electric Power Plants
Individual Ways of Reducing Your Energy Usage
Methods of Storing Energy for Later
How Much Energy Comes From the Sun? And Why is there Global Warming?
How does the Sun create so much energy?
Inventions Which Might Help Deal With Coming Energy Catastrophes
An Invention to Efficiently Make Electricity from Solar
Enormous Heating of the Atmosphere by the Alaska Pipeline
Air Conditioning without Huge Electric Bills and without Freon
A Method of Storing Summer Heat to (Nearly) Entirely Heat a House all Winter
An Extremely Highly-Efficient (and Fast, 200.0 mph) Transportation System for People and Products
The Sophisticated Woodstove I Invented in 1973

The Physics of Wood as a Heating Fuel
Why is the North Pole Heating Faster than the rest of the Earth?
A Possible way to greatly reduce Aerodynamic Drag of Airplanes

( http://mb-soft.com/public/index.html )

C Johnson, Physicist, Physics Degree from Univ of Chicago